Miramichi Salmon Blog – Pre Fall Run Edition

Andy Dumaine fishes Price’s Pool on the Whale River. It produced salmon every day of our trip.

Fishing Friends –

Whale River guide Zoel overlooks the Sluiceway Pool.

We’ll start this Miramichi blog with a report on my recent trip to the Whale River.  The Whale is one of the three principal salmon rivers that flow north to enter the ocean in Ungava Bay in the Nunavik region of Quebec.  The others are the George and the Delay Rivers.  Due to their northerly, remote locations, fishing on these rivers has held up much better than rivers to the south.  Beyond the fishing, a trip to these rivers is attractive because it is also a trip into what is still a complete wilderness.

Leaving Montreal you fly 1,000 miles north into the Inuit village of Kuujjuaq.  Almost immediately upon arrival you are gathered up by Johnny May’s float plane company – his brother runs Pyramid Mountain Outfitters on the George – and are taken by float plane into the river.   You can read about the George River in the August 2022 edition of this blog.  

Whale River Lodge has been owned and run by the Karboski family from upper New York state since 1967.  The lodge is on Standora Island – named after founders Stan and Dora Karboski – and is rustic but very comfortable.  The operation is still a family affair with the founder’s son Michael being head guide with other family members doing the cooking, cleaning and guiding.  

From dawn to dusk you are surrounded by incredible views.  The Wheeler River drops over a huge, smooth stone waterfall into the Whale just across from the camp.  The noise created at the falls provides just enough background to send you off to a great night’s sleep especially when combined with the cool, sub-arctic air. 

Arriving on the Whale River.

Like the George and the Delay the Whale is an immense river system that in many places is half a mile wide. It narrows up quite spectacularly, though, and in places it rushes between cliffs and rock shorelines with big standing waves, large whirlpools and shore to shore whitewater.  Salmon are caught in some of the more moderate flowages that are not unlike some Miramichi waters, but also in pocket water where small pools are formed amongst the heavy flows of the rapids.  It was wild to hook a salmon in one of these pockets.  If the salmon got out into the current a 12-weight couldn’t hold it, so you had try from the moment of hookup to control the fish and keep it from getting deep into that current.  One afternoon I did succeed in landing one from a tiny pocket called the Round Pool.  

Whale River Outfitters owner Mike Karboski holds a good salmon from an upriver pool.

Whale River Outfitters, like a lot of salmon lodges, now counts the number of hooked fish as well as those netted.  I hooked 20 and netted 14 for 6 days fishing.  That is a not an exceptional number by historical standards, but it sure beats what is happening in most locations around the salmon world.

One of my losses was a real monster.  This fish jumped four or five times and ran far off into my backing.  It was far bigger than the largest one I netted which Mike Karboski is holding on the right.  From the first jump I was shocked and perhaps a little intimidated by both its size and wild activity.  I had a feeling that I’ve gotten a few times in my life that it was unlikely I would bring the fish to hand.  I always try to ignore that feeling and just concentrate on the moment.  Usually, I’m successful. After the run the fish swam back up against the current to where I hooked it and I was feeling better.  It then took off somersaulting across the current, but this time the hook pulled out.  I could offer some words that rationalize the loss, but the truth is that it felt horrible.  I can say, though, that I was relieved that I didn’t have to completely wear the fish out to land it on my own among the rocks I was fishing in.

Well chewed nameless hot fly.

 

 

 

I furthered my education regarding Spey rods on this trip.  For several years my aging rotator cuff has asked me to drop down from the 8-weight, 14’ rod that I had thought of as my lighter Spey rod.  I ordered a 13’ 6-weight Sage R8 rod and the suggested 380 grain Scandi Launch head to go along with it.  The rod casts very well, both in Spey casting and overhead.  I was pleasantly surprised that it also had the guts to be able to put the heat on teen-sized fish with no problem. 

The hot fly for me was a nameless pattern of my own that combines a number of my favorite salmon fly characteristics.  First, the body is peacock herl, and the butt of the fly is fluorescent, chartreuse chenille.  I just love the natural segmentation and appearance of that material in sunlit water.  I do usually add a gold rib, but I’m not sure it really makes any difference.  Next, the fly has a black bear wing, black hackle throat and a little silver Flashabou  topping.  I do put on a pair of jungle cock eyes if I remember, but I doubt they matter at all.  This same fly in a #6, #8 and even #10 has worked very well for me on the low water bar at Doctor’s Island on the Miramichi. 

 

 

Generations of dedicated salmon anglers have made trips to the Whale.  I photographed a couple of interesting entries from the camp’s log book.  One page from 35 years listed a group that included writer Tom McGuane and well-known angler Nat Read.  I was lucky enough to draw a large bed in my cabin which I later found out had been placed there so that Lee Perkins Sr. of Orvis and his wife could sleep together at the Whale.  

I photographed this drawing by Chet Reneson from a page in the camp’s log book.

Since I got back on Monday night I’ve heard from a couple of Miramichi outfitters.   Brock Curtis of Curtis Miramichi Outfitters in Blackville sent me this message: “Things are slowly returning to normal after a warm and dry summer here on the Miramichi. Temperatures are much better, and this morning is showing 8C here in Blackville. Our rivers are cooling down again, and the warm water protocols have been lifted on all our rivers.  The number of anglers is slowly picking up, and we are already hearing of salmon being hooked and released. Considering the rivers were opened on Tuesday, one angler reported catching two salmon that evening and another Wednesday morning. It is quite encouraging.  We definitely need rain. River levels are low and a good 3-5 days of rain would make a big difference. That will come. Most anglers are looking forward to fall angling. By the feel of the temperatures here this morning that isn’t far off.”

Ultra-low water on the famous Hooper Pool, Cains River. Photo courtesy Albert Putnam

I also heard similar messages from Byron Coughlan of Country Haven.  Byron said they were resuming fishing today and that they are seeing fish in front of their lodge on the lower Miramichi.  Their pools on the Cains are holding fish too, he said, but the water is just too low now to fish for them.  There are three days of varied precipitation forecast for the Miramichi beginning tomorrow.  Let’s hope it doesn’t disappoint. 

Michael Wigan, proprietor of Borrobol Estate on the Helmsdale River in Scotland also sent me a message.  Here was his comment about the summer’s fishing on the Helmsdale which is located on the East Coast of the northern Highlands: “As we approach September the River Helmsdale remains severely afflicted by lack of rain.  Water levels have been lower than many can remember.  On the rare occasions rain has lifted levels catches have responded as fish move upstream.  2025 season catches will be unusually low.”  I asked Michael about an annual event that I would like to get over there sometime and witness.  That is the stags roaring.  This is part of their mating ritual as the bulls challenge each other for a crack at the hinds.  Michael says the height of that season is the end of September, still about a month away.  

On the Miramichi front the latest trap and barrier numbers have come out since my last blog on July 25.  The short description of all the grilse and salmon numbers for 2025 ytd is abysmal.  As I have said before in this blog, DFO Moncton’s management actions and inactions in debasing this national treasure are either inexcusably incompetent or diabolically criminal.  Personally, I’m not sure, but it is one or the other.  Yes, the grilse numbers are the best in several years, and I do take some minor solace in that fact.  The combined Millerton and Cassilis trap catches of grilse through August 15 are 343 compared to just 70 in 2024, but they were approximately 2,400 annually from 2000 to 2011.  Even 2025’s better numbers are only about 15% of what they were not so very long ago in the early 2000s.  This is entirely due to DFO’s failure to follow its own policies of balancing the interests of the fish species within the river.  They have managed striped bass to an outrageous level of abundance while nearly destroying historically important runs of Atlantic salmon and rainbow smelts.

Suddenly it’s that time of year again. Harvey Wheeler with a fine, late-season, Cains River cockfish from a few years back.

An update on Save Miramichi Salmon’s lawsuit against DFO is that it is winding its way through the Canadian legal system.  Our case has been referred to a judge to decide if it has enough merit to proceed to trial or it should be dismissed as DFO is hoping.  This means that it has actually already passed one level of scrutiny, so we are hopeful.  SMS salmon, though, is not complacent.  We have taken the additional steps of filing for hearings in front of the house standing committee FOPO that provides legislative review of DFO.  The hearing can provide another avenue to affect the process.  DFO has reacted to this progress by contacting SMS and requesting a meeting.  That is currently being arranged. 

Also, I mentioned in earlier blogs, DFO refused this past spring to grant permission for the MSA and First Nations to gather smolts to place in the hatchery.  The purpose was to grow these smolts up to become adult broodfish. No reason for declining the request was given, but recently DFO said that the decline was because they hadn’t had sufficient time to make a decision.  This is, of course, an absurd statement.  The current crisis has been years in the making.  The light in that window, though, is that DFO is now meeting with the Miramichi Watershed Committee, the MSA and First Nations to discuss a plan forward.  This is good news. For too many years the conservation groups have gone to DFO with a stocking plan in February and then DFO has held them at bay until April and finally said no – for no stated reason.  Perhaps this is a turning point. 

I want to take this moment to let you know that the MSA US has set the date of Feb 7th 2026 to hold its annual dinner at the Portland Country Club in Falmouth, Maine.  This has become the night for all those who love and support the Miramichi to rally for the cause.  We will again have both an in person dinner, but also will offer a live Zoom coverage of the event with online bidding and paddle raise. 

I’m very excited to announce that a man that many of us know, Marc Cabot, will be our honoree.  I don’t think that any American still fishing the Miramichi can top Marc’s incredible history on this river.  I’ve had the opportunity to hear Marc recount many entertaining stories about the people, the fishing and the times he has enjoyed on the Miramichi.  That winter evening six months from now he will tell us a few of those stories in person.  Right now, please, cross off Saturday night February 7th, and plan to be part of this celebration.  You’ll very much enjoy the comradery, the food, and the excellent facility.  Beyond that, the Miramichi and its salmon very much need your support.    

Last, if you are interested in Miramichi salmon, the one outfit that is completely focused on this watershed and the welfare of this fish is the Miramichi Salmon Association or MSA.  If you are not a member or have let your membership lapse, whether you are American or Canadian, this link will enable you to renew.  Please don’t hesitate, do it now while the opportunity is right in front of you.  

Thanks for reading.  Brad Burns 

PS  This will be my last blog until the end of the season in October when I will do a wrap up on the whole fall run.  Beginning Sunday, I plan to be on the river until the end of the season on October 15.  I will be making daily entries to the Salmon Report on my website.  Here is a link.  I’ll also be posting regularly on Brad Burns Fly Fishing on Facebook.  If you have any questions about Miramichi salmon fishing please don’t hesitate to send me an e-mail at bigbass@maine.rr.com.  

Mike Karboski’s daughter Brianna – a very knowledgeable guide – nets a grilse for Andy Dumaine.

 

Beautiful end to a long day on the Whale River.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8 Comments on “Miramichi Salmon Blog – Pre Fall Run Edition

  1. Congratulations to Marc! Always enjoyed chatting with him.

    Keep up the good work, Brad. With the Miramichi salmon numbers at historic lows the need for increased and varied stocking programs is critical.

    Bob

    • Thanks Bob. All the biologists I know agree with you completely. There may be things to improve in the procedures, but you have to play the game in order to improve. Considering that under DFO’s current bass management only about 10% of the smolts are making it out of the river gathering a few thousand to grow up to be brood stock has to make sense.

  2. Really enjoyed your report of the Whale River, Brad. I also looked back to your 2022 trip to the George. Definitely on my wish list – your report of fishing the pockets in the fast water reminds me of fishing Sabacchie rapids and 39 steps on the Varzuga. Like you I was able to hook fish in ’39’ but couldn’t get them in but I had more luck at Sabacchi, where I was guided by Jesse James.

  3. Thanks for your salmon blog, photos of the chrome bright salmon are terrific. Interesting to know the Chet Reneson print I have in my home “Tea Time “ came from the Whale River. I miss my friends and fishing for Salmon Salar.From the Pacific Northwest. Kal Kotkas

  4. Hi Brad
    Great report on the Miramichi! Thank you !!
    Sounds encouraging—
    We will be at our camp ( Messler’s camp) in Mcnamee on September 20 til October 5. We’ll have 8 anglers rotating through so hopefully we’ll hit it right and have a few fish in our pools. The last two years the fish have mostly gone by when we arrived . I may have been in the airport in Kuujiiuak when you were flying in to the George. We were just leaving from a very successful trip to the Leaf River estuary camp and a group was flying in to the George from the airport as we were waiting for our plane to Montreal.
    Small world!

    • Hi David. Country Haven reported a good day of fishing yesterday for their first day back. They landed several grilse and lost a salmon. Not bad for this water.
      Were you targeting char on the Leaf?

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